Peony roses, or David Austin roses, have recently become increasingly popular among gardeners, as they are highly decorative and excellent resistance to environmental influences. A variety of varietal variations allows you to choose an acceptable option for each grower. And in order for the plant to really please with lush and stable flowering, it is important to take into account some care requirements, which will be discussed later.

Description of peony roses

Standard pink and red roses no longer surprise anyone, but if, in addition to them, a few more bushes of contrasting yellow or bright white color are planted, then you can noticeably transform the entire garden. Consider the features of several well-known varieties from each "color" group.

Pink varieties

Pink peony roses are usually associated with varietal names such as Constance Spray, Miranda, and Gertrude Jekyll. The pink color of the flowers has different saturations. The size of the buds, the density of the petals and their terry will in any case depend on the variety, so each of them deserves special attention:

1. Constance Spray. An English variety bred in 1961. Shoots are climbing, grow up to 180 cm in height and 180 cm in width. Leaves are large, hard to the touch, with a matte surface. Flowers are densely doubled, with a diameter of up to 14 cm each bud. A characteristic feature of this variety is only the partial opening of the buds, and in the unopened part there are still many small petals.One inflorescence unites immediately 4-6 of such flowers that appear in early summer and remain on the bush until the first cold weather. The aroma of the Constance Spray variety is bright and quite saturated, therefore, in addition to a bright appearance, the variety attracts the attention of gardeners with its smell. For better plant resistance and enhance decorative properties, it is desirable to grow it using a support.

2. Miranda. The variety is largely similar to the previous one, however, it appeared only in 2005. The flowers of this rose can combine bright and pale tones of pink with a wide variety of shades. The upper petals often have a delicate, almost white border, while the inner petals are characterized by a more saturated color. The diameter of each bud does not exceed 7 cm, and in height the bushes of the Miranda cultivar grow only up to 70 cm, with a width of 60 cm, which makes it not the highest representative of the pion-shaped variety of roses.Single flowers without a strong aroma are formed on the shoots, which are excellent for creating bouquets, especially since the flowering period is divided into two stages and lasts until the end of October. Among other varieties similar to Miranda, Rosalind (with pale pink buds) and William Morris are worth noting.
3. Gertrude Jekyll. The flowers of the variety are terry, they look like a flat rosette or a bowl, saturated pink color, with a sweet aroma of rose oil. Closer to the center of the bud, the color is more saturated. The height of the shoots is up to 120 cm, the width of the bush is 90 cm. Over time, the flower petals may fade a bit under the sun, but in general the color remains the same saturated. When grown in cold regions, the rose will grow up, but in warm areas it can be distinguished by increased weaving.

Did you know? Ecuador has long been engaged in the cultivation of long-lived roses that can stand in a cut for 5 to 10 months. The thing is in a special treatment involving the use of natural dyes based on rose oil.

Red varieties

Roses with red flowers have always been considered a symbol of passion and love, so they have not lost their relevance for hundreds of years. Pion-shaped specimens are no exception in this regard, because in addition to the saturated color, they also attract attention with large and lush flowers.

The following varieties can be considered the most interesting and attractive varieties of such flowers:

1. Shakespeare. Fragrant variety of peony roses with bushy buds. Their shade often depends on the characteristics of the place of growth, therefore, varies from redder to purple. A large number of flowers are formed on the stems, which are combined into inflorescences of 3-5 pieces. The diameter of each bud usually does not exceed 8 cm. Normally, the Shakespeare variety is represented by large bushes growing up to 2 m in height and 1.2 m wide. All of them are characterized by excellent protective properties and are not susceptible to the effects of many diseases. The splendor of flowering traditionally depends on the wave: the second stage is not as plentiful as the first, and lasts from the end of July until the onset of the first frosts.

   Did you know? According to some reports, the first roses on our planet appeared more than 35 million years ago. At least that's how many years have been attributed to the pink fossil discovered in Colorado, USA.

2. Benjamin Britten Petals of this variety, in comparison with others, are tightly closed and remain so throughout the season. The shade of red and lush buds gives yellow or orange. The diameter of each of them does not exceed 12 cm, and in one inflorescence there are up to 3 pieces. In height, the bushes of the variety do not grow above the 1 m mark, while having a width of about 70 cm. Moreover, they will be an excellent decoration for both a small and medium-sized garden, favorably shading flowers of other varieties with a delicate light color. Compared with other varieties of peony roses, this option blooms longer, but not so abundantly.

3. Munstead Wood. Burgundy roses with medium sized buds. In one inflorescence, there are up to 5 flowers with a strong aroma, which intensifies when they open. Moreover, the more magnificent the flower becomes, the darker its petals appear, and in the fully opened state, yellow stamens cannot be overlooked. Munster Wood is a low plant, therefore its flexible trunks have a height of more than 1 m and a width of up to 60 cm. Resistance to diseases and pests is at a high level, and given the abundant and long flowering of the plant, it is rightfully can be considered a great option for any garden.

In addition to the described varieties of red rose, it is worth recalling the Othello variety. Although it is less common, it also has many advantages. For example, its flowers often reach 15 cm in diameter, which in combination with bright raspberry color makes them very noticeable in the garden.

Yellow varieties

Yellow roses have more than a dozen varieties, among which many pion-shaped forms occupy honorable first places. For example, when choosing such colors, it is recommended to pay attention to the following varieties.

1. Graham Thomas. The plant was bred in 1983 and still has not lost its popularity. The height of the bush is 1.5 m. The flowers are terry, medium (up to 10-12 cm), bright yellow in color with a peach tint. Flowering begins in the summer and lasts until late autumn, sometimes right up to the frost itself (at this time, flowering is moderate). All flowers are combined in inflorescences of 3-5 pieces and smell very nice. Resistance to pests and ailments is medium.

2. Golden Celebration. One of the popular varieties of yellow rose, which is largely due to the presence of large double flowers with a diameter of up to 16 cm, the petals are of a honey-yellow hue. In each inflorescence there are 3-5 buds with a strong pleasant aroma. Leaves are standard, dark green. In height, the bushes of the variety do not exceed 1.5 m, with a width of up to 120 cm. The shoots are arched, with a large number of thorns. Flowering begins with the arrival of steady heat and continues throughout the summer period.

White varieties

Peony roses with a white color of flowers are not so many as the previous options, but they are also widely known among flower growers from different countries. The most common representatives from this group often include the following:

1. Tranquility. A relatively new variety bred by English breeders only in 2012. Over the past few years, he managed to earn universal recognition, which is largely the merit of large white buds with a diameter of up to 12 cm. Petals are characterized by a slightly yellowish tint, but in the process of opening the bud, the white color becomes more saturated. Fully opened flowers have a very pleasant aroma, similar to apple, so they are perfect for planting in the garden, as well as for cutting into bouquets. Tranquility is a powerful shrub up to 120 cm high (shoots grow in width about the same value). External data and features of the bush allow you to draw up vertical green hedges or simply supplement the flower beds, especially since this variety has practically no thorns.

2. Claire Astin. Peony-shaped rose with cup-shaped flowers of a cream shade. Compared with the previous options, this plant has small buds with a diameter of 8-10 cm, but not every flower is formed on each shoot, but 2-3 at once, which makes the shrub much richer and more magnificent in appearance. All the flowers of the plant exude a pleasant sweetish aroma.In height, the shoots of the variety do not exceed 150 cm, and in width have at least 100 cm. Resistance to ailments is at an average level, the plant blooms 2 times per season.
3. Alabaster. Variety with thick double flowers with a pleasant fragrant aroma. One inflorescence includes up to 5-6 buds, which are placed on tall stems and are great for creating bouquets.The bushes themselves are compact, do not grow more than 90 cm, with a width of 50 cm. Flowering occurs in 2 stages.

Important! Roses of white varieties are not really pure white, but have certain shades: pinkish, yellowish, cream.

Dates and technology of planting roses

The best time for planting seedlings of this variety of roses is mid-spring, when the soil temperature in the selected place reaches + 8 ... + 10 ° C. In the northern parts of Russia, which are characterized by protracted and moist springs, it is advisable to land no earlier than mid-May or early June.

Before proceeding with the planting of the purchased seedling, you should know about the rules for its preparation. To strengthen the root system, it is necessary to maintain the plant in warm water with the addition of a growth stimulator for at least a day. While the seedling is being cultivated, it's time to start preparing a planting pit, the dimensions of which should be slightly larger than the size of the rhizome of the rose. At the bottom of the hole, it is desirable to lay small crushed stone, expanded clay, broken brick or any other material that can serve as drainage.

When planting on top of the drainage layer, it is necessary to spread soil with a hill with the addition of complex fertilizers, and place a seedling on top, gently spreading its roots. The place of grafting should protrude above the soil surface by about 8-10 cm (about the propagation of roses by grafting will be described below).

It is better to fill up the pit with the plant in small portions of the substrate, slightly compacting each layer. At the end of the procedure, the planted rose must be watered and the surface of the soil mulched with a layer of sawdust or straw, which will prevent excessive evaporation of moisture.

Cultivation and care

Theoretically, care for a pion-shaped rose begins even before it is planted on the site, or rather, at the time of choosing the most suitable territory for the plant. In the future, flower growers should also understand the nuances of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing the plant for wintering.

Optimal conditions and location

Regardless of color and variety, peony roses can be planted both in single plantings and in combination with other flowers on the site. Illuminated and ventilated areas without drafts and possible stagnation of moisture are well suited for them, so it is better to plant rose bushes on a hill - this arrangement prevents decay of the root system of the plant.

Also, do not forget that these flowers do not tolerate accumulations of nitrogen and limestone in the soil, so it is advisable to choose places with neutral or slightly acidic soil. When planting in lowlands, with dense and waterlogged soils, good drainage is a prerequisite for a rose.

Watering and feeding

Watering of rose bushes of the described variety should be carried out only as necessary, that is, when the topsoil dries up. The frequency of this process directly depends on precipitation, therefore, during prolonged rains, flowers can not be watered for weeks - drying out the soil is not as dangerous for them as waterlogging.

On average, about 5 liters of water are consumed per adult bush - of course, if we are not talking about climbing varieties that consume 10-15 liters. It is advisable to water it in the evening, so that under the scorching sunlight the moist earth does not become covered with a crust.

Fertilizing roses is possible only the next year after planting on the site, because until that time the flowers have enough nutrients introduced into the hole during planting.

In the future, with the advent of spring, plants should be fed monthly, using the following nutrients:

• rotted cow or horse manure, or chicken droppings - breed in the ratio of 1 glass per 1 bucket of water;
• rotted compost;
• wood ash;
• ready-made mineral fertilizers for roses bought at any flower shop.

With the advent of the warm season, nitrogen should prevail in the composition of nutrients, which contributes to the growth of green mass. In the formation of buds, its share must be reduced, while increasing the concentration of phosphorus and potassium. The introduction of trace elements into the ground should be regular, especially during the growing season.

Before flowering, it is advisable to spray rose bushes with a solution of boric acid, for the preparation of which 1 g of the drug should be dissolved in 1 liter of water and mixed thoroughly. Boron is also an excellent stimulator of bud formation.

From mid-August to the very cold weather, pion-shaped roses are no longer needed, since the plants must stop their growth and build up the root system. Remember that shoots that are not lignified before winter can freeze.

Important! Yellowing and twisting of leaves on the bushes will testify to a supersaturation of roses with fertilizers. If this happens, any dressing will have to be stopped for a while.

Breeding

Peony roses propagate in the same way as other varieties of these flowers, that is, cuttings, layering or grafting. Let's consider each method in more detail.

1. The best time for grafting is Augustwhen it is already possible to obtain suitable lignified shoots from adult bushes. It is from them that cuttings with 3 pairs of leaves are cut - however, before planting in the soil, the lower pair should be removed. Planting material should be placed on a humus-fertilized area, at a distance of 20 cm from each other, and covered with cut plastic bottles (the cork from the neck must be removed). After planting, the shoots should be watered and then left alone until spring. With the advent of the first warm days, cuttings will grow and begin to increase new shoots. If necessary, seedlings can be planted for further cultivation in another territory.
2. Propagation by layering held in the second half of the summer season, using long and completely healthy shoots of the mother plant. Having bent the selected part, at its end you need to make a small cut and, having fixed the shoot at the surface of the soil, sprinkle with soil.If all the actions are performed correctly by the next season, a new plant with its own roots will appear from the section. It must be separated from the mother bush and planted in the desired location.
3. Rose propagation by grafting - the most time-consuming method of all of the above, since it requires precision.Its essence is to perform several simple steps: first you need to make a T-shaped incision in the bark on a branch, insert an eye into it with a kidney of the selected rose variety, and then fasten them with a soft cloth.With proper placement, the grafted part immediately begins to be fed from the main bush. Usually, rose bushes are propagated by vaccination only in specialized farms, where specially trained people are involved in the procedure.

Pruning and sheltering roses for the winter

Proper pruning is required in almost every variety of roses, since it not only contributes to the formation of lush buds, but also prevents the development of various ailments associated with thickening of plantings.

For the first time, pruning should be done after removing the shelter: carefully remove all dried and decayed shoots from the rose, and cut the healthy branches to a third of their length. If the bushes are grown as a living border, then they can be cut to a height of 60 cm.

Important! In the first summer after planting rose seedlings, it is advisable to remove all formed buds from them so that their development does not take vitality from the rest of the plant.

In the future, the pruning procedure should be repeated 2 times a year: in spring (for sanitary purposes) and in autumn (in preparation for wintering). In both cases, weak, unhealthy, broken, and sometimes just extra shoots are removed from the bushes so that they do not inhibit the development of the rose.

After autumn pruning, most varieties of peony roses must be properly covered for the winter. Having rid the plant of the remaining foliage and cut off the green and unripe branches, the stems must either be bent to the ground and fixed first, or immediately covered with a layer of wood sawdust and straw, if necessary additionally covering them with spruce branches, plastic caps or non-woven material.

It is desirable to cover the flowers until the moment when the temperature drops to –2 ... –5 ° C, since frozen roses will not bloom so actively in the future, if they can survive the winter at all. Shelter can also be made from wooden or plastic arches, with dense agrofibre fixed to them, or to cover the plants with special covers-houses, which are easy to find in flower shops. You can remove the shelter when the temperature is stabilized at around 0 ° C, after which it is also worth removing the layer of mulch from the root system.

Features of the flowering period

Almost all varieties of peony roses are characterized by an early onset of flowering, and some of them bloom twice during the summer period. Of course, the second time the flowers will not be so big, but the bush will have time to fully mature before the onset of cold weather, which will greatly facilitate the preparation for winter.

The disadvantage of pion-shaped varieties in terms of flowering is the high sensitivity of the flowers to high humidity, which often leads to decay of the buds. In addition, summer heat affects them not in the best way, because of which the flowers become smaller, and the flowering period is reduced by almost half.

Possible growing difficulties

With the proper organization of caring for roses, there should not be any problems with them, however, the possibility of the development of diseases or damage by pests cannot be completely ruled out.

Among the most common problems of this kind, the appearance of powdery mildew, black spotting or root rot on a rose can be distinguished, in addition to which one sometimes has to deal with aphids or scale insects.In the first case, triple spraying of the bushes with fungicidal compounds (for example, Bordeaux mixture, colloidal sulfur, Fitosporin, Skor or Oksikhom) will help to solve the problem, and in the second one will have to use systemic insecticides like Fitoverm, Aktara or Lightning. "

Important! It is impossible to process roses with the same drugs for a long time, since they are all addictive, therefore rid the flower of pests or diseases will be harder.

In cool time, with an increased likelihood of developing fungal ailments, for prophylactic purposes, the bushes are treated with copper-containing preparations.

How are used in landscape design

During the period when peony roses bloom, the whole garden acquires bright colors, and it does not matter whether these flowers are grown as single plants or they are included in rosaries or alpine slides along with other perennial and annual flowering crops.

Tall varieties can be planted to create live fences or vertical landscaping using metal supports. These varieties look great along with flowers such as digitalis or delphinium.

Medium-sized varieties of peony-shaped roses will look advantageous together with aconite, phlox, Veronica or sage, and for the best effect, undersized varieties can be additionally planted in the foreground, not only peony roses, but also hybrid tea ones (for example, Augustine Louise).

In spring, before buds open, planting can be diversified using spring-flowering bulbous plants such as crocuses, hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, and classic peonies can be planted next to rose bushes to decorate the site in the fall season.

Peony roses are an excellent option both for growing in the garden and for planting in a container, so with their help each grower will be able to organize a highly decorative corner on their territory. A wide variety of varietal variations allows you to combine the most different colors and shades, and the comparative ease of care will be an additional advantage when growing such roses.